As usually, if you decide to make one of these, it will most likely not be like mine because of different circumstances, so use your discretion to achieve a similar result.

The positions for the holes for the power port and the audio jack were marked on the inside by putting the halves together and noting where the jacks overshadow the back, so to speak. The same procedure goes for mounting the tray inside the case.

After the positions for the holes are marked (the red lines on the right), the appropriate size drill is used to bore the holes.

To create a body for screws to go into, I glued wooden strips to the inside of the thin sheet metal to create a firm grip for the screws.

To create a solid backing for the CD holder compartment, I screwed the piece of metal I cut out earlier to block off the remaining two slots.

To create a bracket for CD Player Power Adapter, I used the placeholder metal from the old case and bended it in the required shape.

Here's another perspective of the mounting bracket.

The bracket for the power adapter serves two purposes:

  1. to hold the adapter firmly in place
  2. to create a path to the larger surface of the metal case for better heat dissipation of the IC's

Making the Audio Connection

For the audio output on the rear, I decided to use a 3.5mm audio jack salvaged from a radio to be soldered to the CDROM audio cable. This was because my intention was to use computer speakers as the output speakers for simplicity and because it has a built-in amplifier and a volume control.

The 4 pin audio cable connector on the rear of the CD-ROM drive originally connects to the soundcard to use its amplifier to boost the signal to the speakers to play the audio on the CD.

If you plug a headphone directly into the output on the back of the CDROM, you will only get a weak signal because an amplifier is required for a louder volume. This connector basically only provides line level analogue audio signals from the CD-ROM drive a PC soundcard.

Usually the audio output wire layout is stamped on the metal or printed on a label on the back of the CD-ROM and is usually in this order:

  • pin1 - left signal
  • pin2 - ground
  • pin3 - ground
  • pin4 - right signal

Cut off opposite end of the cable that does not plug into the CDROM and solder the wires to the audio jack.

The ground wire (black) is soldered to the lead that connects to the round shiny metal (shown above) and the red wire (left signal) and white wire (right signal) is solder to the other two leads, respectively. It is not important which is which.

Here's the finished result and the mounting in the case.

The power wires are tucked away to prevent in from touching the hot heatsink and melting the insulations.

Finishing Up

I used cardboard to hide the metalwork in the CD holder compartment and to give the project a more appealing look. It will be later sprayed black for a better look.

After the case is painted, the plastic feet are glued in place and the CD drive installed in the case.

I used Pattex to glue all the pieces together.

I found this rubber grommet perfect for the hole around the power port. The audio port didn't really need one.

This is a close-up of the final product and the power cable.

Here's another view of the front and back of the unit.

Please tell me what you think of this project in the comment section below. I hope this article gives you a few ideas to build your own.

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