To make the rails for the trays to slide on, I chose to use wood because I had a lot lying around and it was easier to carve into the desired shape. Another reason for using wood was because I was short on metal and I could use nails and adhesive to hold the rails in place, using metal would have proven a bit more difficult.
Fig.48 these blocks will become the rails
Fig.49 expansion slot tray of its rails
To get the rails just right, I had to made a few calculations for the assembly to fit perfectly into the bracket. A wooden chisel was used to carve away the excess wood. Also, the holes to hold the rails in place are drilled so that the nail does not protrude to interfere with the movement of the tray.
Fig.50 the smaller holes are for the nails
To get the holes for the nails drilled at the right place, i had to do some more measurements and calculations. For instance, each rail is a given distance apart and each has 3 nails to support it.
Fig.51 one pair of the rails successfully installed
Fig.52 a view of one of the rough edges of a tray
Fig.53 sprayed front view of the assembly
Fig.54 sprayed rear view of the assembly
Fig.55 the space for the motherboard slot bin
To create a guide for the motherboard slot bin, I glued a wooden block to the side and a wooden stop at the end. these two pieces together create a contour which the bin will slide into.
Fig.56 this rail guides the lower side of the bin
To align the bin properly into the slot, a spacer/rail was required on the side of the motherboard tray. A small gap existed between the tray and the slot, so that would have made the bin slack and slant inside the case. I glued two pieces of wooden strips on the sides to act as spaces/rails to solve the problem.
Fig.57 this rail guides the upper side of the bin
Fig.58 a side view of the motherboard slot bin spacer/rails
Fig.59 the bracket assembly is finally riveted in place
Fig.60 right side of the assembly
I used automotive body filler to cover the rivets and for a smoother flush surface. It was a real messy task, but with a few attempts, I managed to fill out the rough spots. I chose to body filler because the epoxy i had wasn't doing a good job and was real sticky to work with. Besides, there wasn't enough to do the whole thing so I had the resort to the filler anyways. Apart from that, I found that the body filler was easier to work with because it dried quicker and was easier to sand off the excess.
Since I had the body filler in abundance and it worked so well, I decided to use it on the rest of the project for a smoother finish.
Fig.61 the slot in the middle is to accommodate the locking hooks
Fig.62 the power grinder was used to level the edges of the trays for a perfect fit
Fig.63 the trays are coming along
Fig.64 the first few drawers are shown here riveted
To hold the corners of the drawers firmly, I decided to rivet them in place.
Fig.65 the white stuff is body filler
The body filler works quite nicely the hold the back plates of the drawers in place while creating a smooth gradual finish.
Fig.66 the space between the ports and the bin is cemented smooth
Fig.67 a rough finish a the filler on the bin
Fig.68 an almost complete motherboard slot bit
On the next page, I'll be showing you the preparations I made to the main chassis to install the remaining rails.